London Collections:Men Show Review Autumn/Winter 2014 Pt II

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

So after yesterday’s plethora of delights that enthralled us,  what do we have for you today. Well, we can quite safely say COLOUR is the major  trend for Autumn, but you could retort with, so what’s new ? What’s new is that we have seen pretty much every colour of the Rainbow from the darker more somber tones as een in TOPMAN Design and the monochromes of Agi & Sam to the racier hues of Richard Nicoll, Jonathan Saunders and of course Christopher Kane, who offered a box of delights to keep any man happy no matter his taste from sober to total intoxication. Kane has expanded his collection to include a more formal element right the way through to his signature patterns and knits in amazing and engaging tones.

Hackett

Hackett

Next stop was the Freemasons Hall in Holborn for the Hackett Show, some what of a British institution holding it’s show within another British institution. The Freemason’s was a spectacular venue for the staging of this grand hotel themed setting. It was like a game of Guess Who, with leading men under the guise of the Explorer, The Graduate, the CEO and travel photographer, to name a few. In short everything was right about this show, in trying to select a picture to illustrate this show, it was so difficult as I liked one shot, then another and another.

E.Tautz

E.Tautz

As always I like to gauge the opinion of learned colleagues, up first this season, is himself, Gary Kingsnorth, who described Patrick Grant’s E.Tautz as, “The highlight of LC:M was E.Tautz for me, a collection that was strong and contemporary.Inspired by the artwork of William Hogarth that was brought bang up date was a compelling collection to watch on the catwalk .”
Kent & Curwen

Kent & Curwen

Another house of tradition with its roots firmly entrenched in formalwear, but somewhat commencing a transformation, since the appointment of  new Creative Director, by golly there all at it, Simon Spurr is Kent & Curwen. He bought us a range inspired by Naval dress uniform, where he has reinterpretation and juxtaposition of iconic pieces.
Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

So  from one brand ringing in the changes to the ultimate brand who have completely turned themselves around, Burberry. Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum, used London again as inspiration, in the second season of showing at LC:M he embraced the London Autumnal weather and used Leaf prints on Scarf, shirts and coats. Plus, if anyone can make that other very British of garment, the string vest cool again surely it has to be Bailey ?

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

The second of our contributing opinion formers comes from one of the pioneers in men’s style blogging, Marcus Jaye, otherwise known as  who felt, “Think my favourite show was Christopher Shannon. Really took it to the next level with ideas and the finish. Kept his sportswear look that he is known for, but gave others, who aren’t necessarily into that look , something like the fag packet knits or the bomber jackets.”

A.Sauvage

A.Sauvage

And finally, we come all too quickly to the end of another LC:M  and what better way to finish this review of the best of the best then with Mr Adrien Sauvage. Who presented his envious and effortlessly cool take on style from rocking formalwear to rock inspired casual wear.



There’s nothing Savage about this man – A.Sauvage

Adrien Sauvage aka A. Sauvage

 

Its hard to believe that A.Sauvage or Adrien Victor Sauvage has only been on the fashion scene as a brand since 2010. This force of nature swept into fashion town and quickly established himself a reputation for not only being a style maverick but a real renaissance man, who will unforgivingly not be pigeonholed, turning his hand to photography, film making and of course designing. After turning his broad back, he stands at 6ft 5, on a truly promising life as a track or basketball player, Adrien takes the rather, how can I put this, unconventional decision to become a life coach, using the name, “Untitled Muse”. Sauvage rapidly drew clients from society and celebrity circles and the worlds of rock, film, and politics, quickly morphing from life coach to stylist to designer. With no formal training in design, Sauvage created looks for his growing client base always with his mantra in mind, ‘DE’ DRESS EASY.

The A.Sauvage Working wardrobe for the Café Royal

The A.Sauvage Working wardrobe for the Café Royal

In 2010 he formally launches A.Sauvage, which literally like everything he does, quickly gains notoriety and started to produce pieces for women as well as men, due to sheer demand. Adrien’s vision to make exclusivity accessible sees the launch of the ‘Dress Easy’ collection introducing casual separates and leather goods. As a rule the brand doesn’t follow the fashion schedule, but in turn focuses on the evolving needs of its customers.

More recently he’s turned his talents to collaborate with iconic British footwear brand Dr Martens to produce one of the most desired shoe ranges in recent years. Also, when the restored London landmark hotel, The Café Royal, re-opened its doors and wanted a suitably luxurious working uniform for its staff, they naturally sort the skills of Sauvage to supply a sartorially envious ensemble.

So, of course Clothes-Make-the-Man wanted to get under the skin of this stylish raconteur and learn a little more about him;

 

 

 

 

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be and why ?

Nike. My Autumn/Winter 2013 collection is heavily influenced by sportswear, I guess in a return to my basketball roots. I’ve always been a fan of Nike and I’d love to create a range of trainers to compliment the collection.

 

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

Dress Easy, Live Easy.

 

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

I started styling my friends’ wardrobes and this gradually lead to the big time, working with a large portfolio of high profile figures. In 2010 I decided to use this experience to establish my own label, House A. Sauvage. A. Sauvage has been well received since my first capsule collection, entitled ‘This Is Not A Suit’. But I suppose I felt the big break came when we moved to our flagship store on Maddox Street last year.

 

How do spent your free time ?

I like to play ball, watch ball, travel… and take long baths in between.

 

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

Michael Jackson.

 

Who would do you ideal diner guest and why?

Warhol and Saint Laurent – great minds, great creatives and great sources of inspiration.

 

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

Anything elegant, low-key and easy to wear that can be worn without a belt or cufflinks.

 

What do you have to do after this conversation?

Shoot my Spring/Summer 2013 campaign in Hong Kong.

 

What would you like to be doing after this conversation?

Interviewing you.

 

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it? If so what & why?

I bought my girlfriend some underwear for Christmas but decided I liked her better without it.

 

Who is your style icon? Why?

Anyone can be a style icon to me if they look good and believe in what they wear. My photography focuses on Natives – from my home country Ghana, for example, or the courts of Venice Beach.

 

If you could have invented anything what would it be?

Coca-Cola, because then I’d save myself a fucking fortune.

 

A.Sauvage Spring 2013 Collection

A.SAUVAGE SS13 LOOKBOOK - LOOK 9

 A.SAUVAGE SS13 LOOKBOOK - LOOK 18

 A.SAUVAGE SS13 LOOKBOOK - LOOK 19

 A.SAUVAGE SS13 LOOKBOOK - LOOK 20