Milan Menswear Shows -Shows Review -Spring /Summer 2015

The Milan Menswear Shows have come around again and although many are complaining about London stealing Milan’s Thunder with the hugely successful London Collections:Men, surely no one can moan when your schedule contains such household names as Gucci, PRADA, Giorgio Armani, Versace and Calvin Klein, to literally name but a few ????

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Now, its not uncommon for designers to cite jaunts to far off climbs as inspiration for their collections, but this season in Milan I half expected Judith Charmers to jump out from the end of the Catwalk and start giving me a review of her stay while in Milano. We had Donnatella Versace falling in love with the people of Cuba, there was Stefano Pilati of  Ermenegildo Zegna finding divine inspiration from a temple in Greece and Dolce & Gabbana drawing on the Spanish occupation of Sicily and that was for starters.

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Apart from all that travel malarkey, Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein worked with lots of naked flesh tones for Spring 2015 from pastey whites to sun kissed browns and inserted flashes of primary colours in for good measure.

Missoni

Missoni

However, over at the House of Missoni nothing could be further from the truth. Angela Missoni working to the tried and trust recipe of producing great clothes in this most wonderful house pattern and not managing to make it look like a dogs dinner.

Prada

Prada

Then over at PRADA we saw a collection, where at times you were left puzzled as to whether you were watching a Womenswear or menswear show. Miucchia Prada held her show set around a swimming pool and had both boys and girls parade around it, although very 1970’s inspired garb, at the same time incredibly commercial and equally wearable.

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold continued with its reboot under the watchful eye of Nicola Formichetti, who like John Varvatos was on a real military tip mixing a contemporary rebel skater silhouette with Crimean military style jackets.

 

Fendi

Fendi

Penultimately, we have an ultra wearable collection for next Spring from Fendi, offering Summer must haves for ever well dressed international jet setters, catering for the rich young things who party in all the beautiful places and insist on being impeccably turned out.

Lastly, we get to those crazy Canadian combo Caten twins, Dean & Dan of DSquared, see the below image as the twins kinda take on military. In their fluro camo print, which we predict will be one of the most ripped off, sorry inspired prints that we see on the high. Street next Summer.

DSquared

DSquared


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Don’t Rage against the Jean Machine

The principles behind Jean Machine are pretty simple, but aren’t all the best ideas, to offer great quality, well-cut jeans and casual men’s clothing.  If only everything in life could be so well executed.

The British brand started life in the 1970s, where Jean Machine was the definitive denim store on the King’s Road in London. In 2012, it was re-launched by Chloe Lonsdale, daughter of the founder, who wanted to deliver the same easy, effortless denim experience for the modern man.

The brand offers three clean, contemporary jeans fits at its core: JM1 (slim), JM2 (straight) and JM3 (relaxed). They are made from the highest quality fabrics sourced from Japanese and European mills, and available in a selection of timeless ‘never out of stock washes’ and unique seasonal finishes. The concise collection of ready to wear complements the denim and includes shirting, jersey, knitwear, outerwear and the Jean Machine signature Denim Jacket and as a result offers an uncomplicated style and concise wardrobe staples for the modern man.

For Spring 14 Jean Machine are following the success of their partnership for Autumn-Winter 2013, with the second of a genius collaborations with the Italian Fashion House Missoni. The two family-run businesses have used their specialist expertise to create new denim styles and washes elevated with Missoni’s renown knits in their subtle colour palate of the season.

The collaboration will offer the classic JM2 straight leg jean in three new washed out, grain-effect tones: dusty green, mustard yellow and muted blue, and One Wash, an essential blue.

Jean Machine X Missoni

They will feature Missoni knit pocket bags in this season’s deep blue and black. The same colours will also be offered in a new trouser shape, the Luxor, designed specifically for Missoni. The Luxor is a smart denim-trouser with a fuller waistband and pleated front, and will also be available in Ecru. Jean Machine’s signature JM4 denim jacket will be customised with Missoni knit pockets and will be available in Ecru and One Wash.
The underside of the collar will be lined in Missoni knit and will be detachable.

Double Denim never looked so good !

Milan Menswear Shows AW13

The review of the Milan Menswear shows for this coming Autumn has a truly international feel to it, no not just because it’s Milanese, but we kick off with the review with the first lady of German, no not Angela Merkel,tut, the other iron lady Jil Sander and we conclude with the colourful Canadian duo the Brothers Caten and along the way we’ll throw in a Brit and a Yank for good measure.

Jil Sander AW13

You know when you attend a Jil Sander show it isn’t going to be all Peacock feathers, day glo and a gangster rap sound track and do you know what ? It wasn’t this season either, but what we were treated to was a vintage collection of true, pure Sander genius. There were covert military references, no surprises there, the colour palette was masculine and continued with the slight military undertone. But what was the show’s greatest success was the fact that it offered a sensible, wearable and contemporary collection without being boring.

Dolce & Gabbana AW13

Moving on to designers on more home turf for Dolce & Gabbana, who surely must be expecting a call from the Vatican’s legal team, for a share of their profits ? First they took the Rosary beads and turned them into a must have male Fashion accessory now they seem to have turned their attention to the miraculous medal, ask your Catholic friends. Their theme was “devotion” and boy did they mean it. They had turned their Teatro into a shrine, so much so, I nearly genuflected when I entered. This was full on Roman Catholic iconology, either a saints image was used to decorate a garment or the models looked as those they had stepped out of the seminary. Move over Geek chic this is parish priest chic !

Burberry AW13

Told you we’d throw a Brit in for good measure and who better then Mr Christopher Bailey MBE for Burberry Prorsum, who opted for the rather nostalgic theme of “I ♥ Classics” for his Autumnal showcase and on the whole I’d agree with him. It was a beautifully wearable collection but I’m just not quite sure about the injections of animal print, whether on bags, sunglasses, macs or on all the shoes throughout the show, maybe it’ll grow on me.

Next up is the all American brand helmed by the Italian Italo Zucchelli, Calvin Klein Collection. For this season Zucchelli seems to have fused a mix of contemporary masculine tailoring and futuristic sci-fi outerwear ala Blake 7, which saw the models look like either delegates or officers at some far flung inter galactic sartorial conference.

The Missoni show and its 60th anniversary was marred with the sad news that Vittorio Missoni and his wife Maurizia Castiglioni are still missing after their plane disappeared off the coast of Venezuela last Friday. The family decided the show must go on and indeed it did. The family run business famed for its patterned knitwear, offered a collection that couldn’t fail to please, not only were the aforementioned knits on display in outdoorsy hues. But the iconic family patterns were more subtly used in the weave of the fabric used in the construction of overcoats and suiting.

Prada AW13

What can I say about Prada, well I want that Blue jumper NOW ! for starters. This collection wasn’t tricksy or whimsical, apparently the design team have been working on the exact tones of colour for months and it certainly paid off for them. Sub-culture references were there, this time Teddy boys, but it wouldn’t be a Prada show without these. If I had to make one criticism of it, be it a small one, was I found the casting distracting, the models looked like the 3 stooges and their dad or some odd Slovakian version of Hollyoaks, but it wasn’t enough to detract from the show.

Gucci AW13

And so from one Italian Dynasty to another, Gucci are freakin good at what they do and Frida Giannini, is doing a sterling job as Creative Director, almost to the point of making it an impossible task to think who could ever replace her at the iconic Fashion house and who would have thought that after Tom Ford. The Gucci vision and DNA is so strong there is no mistaking a piece from this company from accessories to a tuxedo, it is undoubtably Gucci and this collection does not disappoint and can be summed u in one word, Classic, this is without a doubt Giannini’s most traditional of collections to date.

DSquared2 AW13

Finally, to the Dynamic DSquared2 duo of Canadian Twins Dan and Dean Caten. What a show ! Congratulations lads, the best collection to date and it all centred around 1940’s jazz clubs. But don’t let the retro theme fool you this was bang up to date and offered something everyman could buy into.